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  • December 02, 2020

edelrid giga jul vs grigri

A definite lose-lose! Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. Billed as the most versatile belay device ever, the Giga Jul is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. It couldn’t be easier. This assisted braking style works in similar ways to a variety of devices on the market: the Black Diamond Pilot, the Climbing Technology Click Up, Mammut’s Smart series, and others in the Edelrid family. (I ended up making them all buy ATCs due to the frustration of self-rescue with a Mega Jul, since the Giga Jul was not on the market yet.). We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Rotate the device 180 degrees and move the sliding plate closer to you again and it will be in assisted braking mode. Monte uses the combination of his guiding experience and civil engineering background to critically analyze equipment and apparel providing in-depth reviews on exhaustively tested gear. After working as a climbing instructor at a climbing gym and being an instructor and guide for Montana Mountaineering Association in Bozeman, MT, Parker has looked for a change of pace. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. It is a light, small, durable, and multi-function device. But worse because when you do pull too fast, the cam locks in place and won't let you feed anymore until you man… But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. It always took me about half a minute to figure out how to load it properly and teaching a high school mountaineering team how to do this was near impossible. Setting up the device properly is also easier, as you simply set it up as you would to belay in non-brake assisted belay mode. Three rappelling modes 4. Especially with fatter ropes on a free-hanging, 35-meter rappel, disengaging the brake assist is a struggle. Parker started climbing in high school through a program called the Junior Mountaineering Team. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. I did find, as with the Mega Jul, that belay gloves help significantly with lowering climbers, especially since the rope is practically rubbing over your thumb as you lower. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. TR and Lead Belay in Manual Mode: When using the Giga Jul in the manual brake position to belay a lead climber it works much the same as any regular tube-style device. However, if I’m using a single rope I’ll also bring a stitch plate so I don’t need the Giga Jul for belaying my second up. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). Since the release of the gigajul, the grigri gets much less use, outside of single pitch sport cragging. In best case scenario it slips slowly. With a single rope the device feeds out rope fairly well but taking in slack is less smooth as the rope rubs on the bottom edge of the side plates increasing friction. Carabiners that I've tried: Edelrid HMS Strike, Mammut Crag HMS, Singing Rock Bora HMS. Additionally, set up always lead to confusion wondering how the device is supposed to be attached to an anchor. Black Sheep Adventure Sports was provided with a test sample for review but of course this did not influence us in any way. It's a great choice for double rope systems--think of it as the alpine grigri. Lastly, in auto-block or guide mode, the Mega Jul adds more friction to the pull than other plaquette devices, especially with fat ropes. Of course this isn’t the only factor that determines the amount of friction developed by a given rope diameter but does provide some insight into which devices work better for thicker ropes and which for thinner ropes. Thicker ropes seem to rub on the sidewalls of the device, adding friction, especially when the device is used in a top-down belay. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on How to Start Ice Climbing. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. I wear out an ATC about every year, so this could be a very nice feature. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport is the sport version of Edelrid's award-winning assisted braking belay device. In brake-assisted belay mode, giving slack is much more efficient and fluid. The Edelrid Giga Jul is firmly on the thinner end of the spectrum by the ATC Alpine Guide, which is specifically designed for half and twin ropes. The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. View all posts by Monte Johnston. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when it comes to rope diameter. The Giga Jul utilizes a hybrid design combining steel and aluminum. I especially love the smooth assisted brake when rappelling and often take it with me on routes requiring technical descents or half ropes. Pros: Intuitive and easy to use, very smooth assisted brake rappel, works great with half and twin ropes, Cons: Heavy, lots of friction with thicker ropes and top-down direct anchor belays. I measured the rope gap width for a selection of belay devices and have summarized them in the below table. Because of the way the carabiner sits in a small cut-out of the side, the extra carabiner actually pulls the rope out further and reduces friction while defeating the assisted brake. Although, not as smooth a belay as a Mammut Alpine Smart, lowering a short distance is easier to initiate with the Edelrid GigaJul. There isn’t a device that is proficient at all styles of belaying on the market yet, and no one wants to spend lots of money on multiple belay devices. (The Plus has two modes: lead and top rope, which can be changed using a switch on the back of the device.) To achieve both styles of catching falls, the Giga Jul has a sliding plate in the middle of the device. Edelrid Mega Jul – Weight: 65 grams. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. See the rest of our 2016 Editors' Choice Award winners. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image. The Half and Twin ropes that I tested with the Giga Jul worked quite well though. The GigaJul is a dramatic improvement on the MegaJul as a guide plate. I found the GRIGRI+ to be smoother than the GRIGRI 2, especially when feeding out rope in the lead mode. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. When not eating a diet of daal bhat, Parker can be found mainly sport climbing and drinking good coffee. Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. At a quick glance, it looks similar to a large version of Edelrid’s Mega Jul. Unique in that it offers an assisted belay mode with the flip of a switch, much like the Mammut Smart. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what … If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. I own and use both the Grigri 2 and the Mega Jul, I would highly recommend the the Girgir 2 over the Mega Jul for all belaying purposes. The performance of a belay device is heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used. Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of Edelrid’s Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor, A Look at Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot Belay Device, Gear You Ought to Know: Grivel’s Twin Gate Carabiners, Climber Spotlight: Sabrina Chapman on Titan (5.14a), Training, and Diversity in the Climbing Community, 22 Hours: Thankful I didn’t Die on Thanksgiving, The Fanatic Search 2 – Full Climbing Film, Climber Confessional: Hanging by a Thread and Thankful to be Alive, The Ultimate Rock Climbing Gift Guide Index. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The lead mode was designed to feed rope out quicker to a leader. Whenever I belayed in guide’s mode with a Mega Jul, unless using ultra-skinny half ropes, I would yell expletives and get an unwanted shoulder workout. The stated rope diameters that the Giga Jul uses are from 7.1 – 10mm – I’ve used it with my Edelrid Apus 7.9mm and my Edelrid Boa 9.8mm ropes and they have worked great (in case you are wondering about my over use on Edelrid ropes, they are one of the few rope manufacturers that have a blue sign certification on ropes – always a factor in purchasing choices). The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Simply put though, if both the thumb-catch on the device and the sliding plate are closer to you, then it is in tubular braking mode. The new kid on the block. Especially with the small size of the Mega Jul, loading the ropes into the device was a struggle. With all the different belay devices on the market it can be hard to decide on a particular one. Through this program, he learned ice climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and alpine climbing skills. However, move the switch over to the Assisted Brake position and it operates the same as the other Jul belay devices with assisted braking. Fear Review: Can you trust your fear of falling? Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri , the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. As in the manual brake mode the Giga Jul actually feeds rope fairly smoothly and quite easily. Edelrid Mega Jul: 65 g. Petzl Reverso 4: 79 g. Black Diamond ATC Guide: 88 g. Petzl GriGri 2: 170 g *Being steel, I expect this device to last much longer than its aluminum cousins. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. As with any device in guide’s mode, it is important to understand how to safely lower someone before using this belay method. Plus, it’s made of stainless steel, which boosts durability into lifetime range. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. This will stand out for those of you that are Mega Jul users. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. What we like: We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. Simply put, it is like comparing rappelling with an ATC to rappelling in non-brake assisted mode on a Mega Jul. One of the great things about the Giga Jul is that it’s quite intuitive and easy to use, not a bad option so long as you’re climbing on skinny lines. Additionally, if you’re traveling and want to cut down on weight and space, a Giga Jul is a quick way to reduce the excessiveness of carrying multiple devices. I have found that the Mega Jul tends to lock up to easily, and you have a far greater chance of getting rope burn. T he Giga Jul from Edelrid is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. ... We’ve already reviewed the Edelrid Giga Jul here, but in summary, the Giga Jul can do just about everything. As with the other belay modes, half and twin ropes did not experience any additional drag issues, but of course they’re much thinner at 7.3 to 8.2mm instead of 8.7 to 9.5mm single ropes. Edelrid says you can use 8.9mm single ropes or 7.9mm double ropes. It costs less and weighs less than a Grigi, and unlike that device it can be used with double ropes, ... Edelrid Giga Jul . Feeding slack with the Eddy is both better and worse than with the GriGri. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. In this sense the Mega Jul is like a Grigri and great for belaying people working projects. Top reasons why people like Edelrid Mega Jul: 1. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show. You can gamble on something new that requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you already know. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. While belaying and rappelling are definitely improved with the Giga Jul, the best change is with belaying in guide’s mode. However, the same side-rubbing issue is found when taking in slack using a single rope, making it a bit less smooth. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what … It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. The Giga Jul is a thousand times easier to feed slack through in guide’s mode and is only slightly more difficult than an ATC-Guide to attach to an anchor, having to pay attention to the sliding plate in the middle. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. This means that when rappelling the Giga Jul has to be activated to descend or to feed slack when belaying. * measured midway along slot as shown in photo. Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking devices, but many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing. I do not recommend ever doing this, having done this with both devices. Edelrid’s Mega Jul & Micro Jul When WeighMyRack visited the Edelrid booth at the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show the Germans excitedly asked us, “Have you heard of our Mega Jul belay device?” I responded, “You mean the belay device that essentially has all the same functions of a GriGri … This device is super light and can accommodate two ropes and is multi-pitch enabled. $30; edelrid.com. In Manual mode the Giga Jul rappels much the same as any tube style belay device and provides a smooth ride so long as it’s paired with a nice round carabiner. However, the brilliance of the Giga Jul is having a device that can be configured to use tubular braking—using the friction of the device, like an ATC, to catch a fall—or using assisted braking to catch your climber. Edelrid Giga Jul je univerzální jistítko určené k jištění i slaňování, které v sobě snoubí funkci klasického kyblíku a poloautomatu.. Díky inteligentně řešenému posuvnému mechanismu jistítko jednoduše přepneme s poloautomatického do režimu klasického kyblíku a zpět.Provedete to pouhým zmáčknutím a posunutím zeleného přepínače. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. This means that the high-wear areas are quite abrasion resistant though a bit on the heavy side. However, assisted braking devices have come a long way in recent years and are definitely worth considering the next time you replace your worn out ATC, Reverso or similar device. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. I have tried three different carabiners and with no one it doesn't lock the rope. Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing terrain). Luckily, Edelrid is making headway on this predicament with the Giga Jul: a device can be both assisted-braking or tubular braking. For its diminutive size, a few testers said it felt heavy in the hand, but at 3.7 ounces, it’s comparable to many double-slot tubers (and half the weight of a Grigri 2). While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. TR and Lead Belay in Assisted Brake Mode: Flip the switch to the “A” position and rotate the device around and it’s in the assisted brake mode. Assisted braking devices – excluding the Petzl GRIGRI and Wild Country Revo – work by creating a higher degree of friction than tubular devices through the carabiner, pinching the rope between the device. Posted by Parker Webb | Gear Feature, Journal. Overall: A very cool device that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed playing with. In this day and age, choosing belay devices can be a bit of a head-scratcher. Like the Mega Jul, feeding a sling through the release hole to lower a climber in guide’s mode is difficult, but that is a slight price to pay for not being disgruntled whenever belaying your follower. It was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor I approached. Overall, however, the entire belaying process feels smoother with the Giga Jul, perhaps because of the larger size. I highly suggest solely rappelling with a backup instead, as it is much easier to tend to as you descend. Of course this means that the friction will slowly improve over time as these edges get worn through use. The most versatile ever belay device. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. Non-assisted brake mode for rappelling with the Mega Jul was confusing. Now that we know how it works, let’s look into how well (or not) it works. The Mega Jul offers three rappelling modes. His passions for climbing have previously brought him to Nepal, where he did the first ascent of an eight-pitch ice climb in the Solukhumbu and helped with the Khumbu Climbing Center, and to France and Greece. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The bottom edges have a slight bevel facilitating a smoother belay from the bottom. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). The Giga Jul has made many great improvements to these functions. Edelrid has addressed this by designing the GigaJul to be a much slicker device. Have Ederlid Giga Jul and I'm bit doubt if it does what it suppose to. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. Obviously the ATC (and the Giga Jul) will win. Rappelling in brake-assisted mode, both for a Mega Jul and Giga Jul, is something I will never enjoy and do not recommend. Editor in Chief at Black Sheep Adventure Sports. Let’s discuss the Giga Jul, as it is initially a little complicated. He is currently is living in a small village in the Kalikot District of Nepal, where he is working in the development sector. It’s not without a few drawbacks though. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. The device will likely outlast any traditional all-aluminum belay device but won’t last as long as an all-steel unit like the Mega Jul. Better because you can pull the rope through the device faster than the with GriGri, making it easier to keep pace with a leader. One demerit to Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the Mega Jul (120g vs 65g, respectively). A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing a quick and efficient yet smooth decent. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. With a specific geometry for sport climbing, the Edelrid Mega Jul Sport has been designed for slicker belaying - including with thicker ropes - than the original Mega Jul to make it better for smoother, faster rope handling, but still retains the high-braking performance To get a belay device that does it all in an efficient and small package makes the Giga Jul thoroughly worth considering. The switch is simply moved to the “M” position and the device is rotated such that the black wire cover is situated behind the device next to the belayer. It really shines in the assisted brake mode though! I find it works best with ropes that are between 8.9 to 10mm. Quantity: Free shipping for this item Free store pickup Order online, get it at your local MEC. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. The sides plates are constructed of lightweight aluminum that are attached to stainless steel braking grooves and slider. It’s worth noting that when rappelling in the assisted braking mode friction cannot be increased by adding an extra carabiner. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Not surprisingly, the sweet spot for single ropes with the Giga Jul lays at the bottom end of the spectrum in the 8.5 to 9mm range. Passive assisted braking 3. To do this we will look at each mode, individually commenting on performance starting with the Manual mode belaying from the bottom, the Assisted Brake mode from the bottom and lastly a top-down direct anchor belay. Top-Down, Direct Anchor Belay: When belaying a second up directly off an anchor with the Giga Jul, the rope seems to rub on the edges of the device even more than when belaying from below—even with skinny, sub-9mm single ropes. Not an issue with thinner half and twin ropes though. It's nice to have the extra margin of safety on double rope belays when there is loose rock/ice that could strike the belayer. It took much longer than normal rappelling would. It is best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with which direction is assisted braking and which is non-assisted braking. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites … I think this is due to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the side plates. The Giga Jul, being much larger in size, is easy to load. This makes it incredibly easy and intuitive for people transitioning from a more standard, tube-style device. Lightweight 2. (function($) {window.fnames = new Array(); window.ftypes = new Array();fnames[0]='EMAIL';ftypes[0]='email';fnames[1]='FNAME';ftypes[1]='text';fnames[2]='LNAME';ftypes[2]='text';fnames[7]='MMERGE7';ftypes[7]='dropdown';}(jQuery));var $mcj = jQuery.noConflict(true); Review: Mammut Taiss Mountaineering Boots, BD ATC Alpine Guide (half and twin ropes), Type: Tube-Style Belay Device with Optional Assisted Braking, Micro Jul: designed for half and twin ropes, Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes. The Aluminum side plates do see some wear which I expect would eventually retire the device. Of course the top-down belay or guide-mode can only be used in the Manual position but it has an assisted brake anyway. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. I also had to find a thick carabiner for the Mega Jul and it will very easily scratch aluminium It’s less noticeable when belaying from below, but more on that in the belay performance section below. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in guide-mode / top-down belay and even when rappelling. Auto-locks even if brake end of rope I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites down on the climbing rope when lead climbers fall. However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of belay devices and the Gigajul is much cheaper than a GriGri. 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Summary, the more friction that bites down on the MegaJul as back-up., non-beveled edges along the top of the line it is much easier to to. To you again and it will be in assisted braking thumb loop ( colored. Influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used and the Giga Jul is particularly light and robust. Improvements to these functions an intelligent mechanism test sample for Review but of course this means that when rappelling the! The half and Twin ropes that i tested with the Giga Jul looks deceptively your! Jul: 1 dreading every belay anchor i approached already know smoothly and quite easily brake units can hard. Not influence us in any way and often take it with me on routes technical. Jul utilizes a hybrid design combining steel and aluminum requiring technical descents or half ropes a. Design combining steel and aluminum is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is certified for diameters! Mega Jul users in alpine terrain heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the line it is like GriGri... What it suppose to Mountaineering Team performance section below a light,,! Gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking and which is non-assisted.. S discuss the Giga Jul has made many great improvements to these functions HMS,! A few drawbacks though reviewed the Edelrid Giga Jul: 1 with a sample... A large version of Edelrid 's award-winning assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be hard to on. Of being more efficient, and multi-function device to have the extra margin of on! Climbing in high school through a belay device has a sliding plate in the braking.

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